Leather offers the perfect blend of sophistication, luxury, and timelessness. It’s an attractive material that can range from very high end and expensive to super low end and cheap, depending on factors like the animal source and the leather tanning process. 

When I started designing leather shoes and accessories for Womads, I knew there were different types of leather and wanted the best for my Womads customers. But with so many kinds and processes of leather, it made sense to work with leather experts, which is how I developed my knowledge of leather and the different leather tanning processes.

So, let’s dive into all things leather—exploring different types and figuring out the best kind!

Leather Tanning Process: The Different Ways Leather is Treated

Like many of us, leather “tans”, just not in the way we do of course. Tanning transforms animal hides into durable material for us to wear and use. The process alters the hide’s color, feel, and durability. Here are the most common types:

1. Chrome Tanning (Wet Blue)

Chrome tanning is a quick and widely-used method involving chemicals, acids, and chromium salts, which give leather a bluish-gray tint during the process. Because of its speed the process uses less water and energy.  For Womads I choose Chrome Tanned leather because of the vibrant colors I select for my collections. Chrome tanning also produces goods that retain color and are easy to maintain which is a huge bonus, especially for everyday leather goods. There is simply no other process that could give me the rich colors and we will get into why as we go through all the processes. While some worry about its environmental impact, when waste is managed properly, it’s a safe and sustainable option.

Chrome tanning is popular for its speed and its ability to produce flexible, durable, and soft leather—ideal qualities for leather goods. 

2. Zero Chrome Tanning (Wet White)

Zero chrome tanning, as the name suggests, is chromium-free, making it an eco-friendly option. As well as the absence of Chromium salts it is great for material designed for sensitive skin such as items like baby shoes and clothes. This process creates a soft, flexible leather that turns “wet white” after tanning. It’s also popular for handbags and footwear. 

However the lack of Chromium actually makes it difficult to work with and loses its vibrancy in color. That is why this wasn’t an option for Womads as the colors would not have been as rich. This is a great tanning process for brands that want more earthy and natural colors. 

3. Vegetable Tanning

As you might guess, vegetable tanning uses natural materials like bark, leaves, and wood. It’s one of the oldest, most traditional methods and produces firmer leather with an earthy tone.

Vegetable-tanned leather ages gracefully, developing a rich patina—a soft sheen on the surface over time. It’s ideal for items needing structure, like saddles and belts, and is often used in high-end leather products, like those from Hermès. The biggest pro of vegetable tanning is the natural process and benefits to the environment, however, just like each tanning process vegetable tanning has its cons. Leather that has been vegetable-tanned is much stiffer making them less functional, and the colors tend to be less vibrant.

Types of Leather 

As you may know, I talk a lot about how Womads are crafted with authentic, soft, and breathable leather. So, what kind of leather do we use, and what other types are out there? Let’s get into the details:

1. Full-Grain Leather

Full-grain leather is made from the top layer of the hide, retaining all its natural grain. Each piece is unique in appearance, and this type of leather is highly durable, breathable, and moisture-resistant.

When designing Womads, I wanted top-quality leather with the lasting and easy to maintain character that full-grain provides. It’s expensive and requires maintenance, but it’s perfect for luxury goods that are meant to last and develop personality over time.

2. Top-Grain Leather

Top-grain leather is a high quality leather that is also sourced from the top layer of the animal hide. It is similar to full-grain but is sanded down and treated to remove imperfections, giving it a smoother finish which is often found in dress shoes. The sanding is meant to give the leather a polished look. However the process of sanding leather decreases the durability and the water resistance of the leather. 

That said, It’s still high-quality and expensive leather. Its biggest pros are that it's soft, flexible and breathable similar to the full grain leather. Top grain is often used for mid to high end goods.

3. Genuine Leather

Genuine leather is a lower-grade leather made from layers of hide left after the top-grain or full-grain layers are removed. It’s typically used for affordable leather goods like belts and wallets. 

Genuine leather looks good initially but doesn’t age as well. It definitely won’t last you anywhere near as long as a higher grade leather. So if you’re looking for an affordable piece of leather for a couple uses that looks luxurious and are okay with it not lasting, genuine leather is a good option. 

4. Suede Leather

Suede leather is characterized by its super-soft, fuzzy texture, and it’s sourced from the underside of the hide. It’s delicate and prone to staining, so it’s best for occasional wear.

You’ll see it in jackets, shoes, and accessories where a light, soft feel is preferred. Suede can be a long lasting material if properly maintained however its very smooth texture makes it more likely to tear and its fuzzy texture is not water resistant. Suede is a beautiful material and is perfect for occasional dressy wear rather than everyday wear. 

5. Nubuck Leather

Nubuck is top-grain leather that’s been buffed to create a soft, velvety surface.

The Nubuck leather can look luxurious and still has a soft surface similar to suede but is much more durable. It is often used for boots, jackets, and furniture. Unlike the other kinds of leather Nubuck requires regular care and maintenance to maintain its look and is only resistant to a small amount of water, if exposed to lots of water and will be ruined. 

6. Patent Leather

Patent leather is known for its glossy, high-shine finish, achieved through a plastic or lacquer coating. In some cases, modern day patent leather is a mix of real and faux leather, making it more plastic, however some patent leather is still made with animal skin. 

It’s water-resistant, durable, easy to clean, and used for shiny shoes or handbags. However there are definitely a few cons of patent leather. It's less breathable than other types of leather and is a lot stiffer. These shoes are highly processed and are prone to wear and tear. If you find a tear in your patent shoe it will just become a part of its appearance because those cracks will be irreversible. The process to get the high gloss exterior uses toxic glues and sometimes plastic which is not environmentally friendly.

7. Corrected-Grain Leather

This is the lowest grade on the list, heavily processed and inexpensive, often used for mass-market goods. A good rule of thumb, leather with the less corrections made to it, are the higher grade more expensive leathers. Corrected-grain leather is when the surface of the leather has been changed and altered to create a certain specific appearance.

Animal Types and Their Leather

Leather isn’t limited to cowhide—though that’s the most common. Here’s a look at different sources:

1. Cowhide
   Cowhide is durable, shape-retaining, and versatile, making it the most popular leather.
2. Lambskin
   Known for its softness and flexibility, lambskin is often used in luxury goods. Lambskin is rarer than cowhide which contributes to the higher cost. 
3. Goat Leather 
   Goat leather offers a balance between the toughness of cowhide and the softness of lambskin. With a rougher texture, it’s often used for shoes and bags.
4. Exotic Leathers
   Leathers from animals like alligators and ostriches fall into this category. Alligator leather is typically used for small luxury items like handbags, while ostrich leather, with its distinctive texture, is celebrated for its durability.

What’s your leather pick?

When it comes to which leather and leather tanning process is the best there are several factors you can look at and of course look at what your needs are. If you need vibrant colors then chrome tanning is your go-to. If you want high quality leather you need minimal processing. The leather market is huge, and has lots of different price ranges and needs.

Maybe the best leather and process for you is not the best for me. Let’s chat, which kind of leather and leather tanning process would you argue is the best? You can let me know through social media, be sure to follow us here for more leather knowledge and behind the scenes looks of how I developed Womads.